Successfully got one flavor installed and tweaked. A flavor (or "flavour" if you're British) is a skin for your blog. There's a default flavor, but you can also change the flavor you see by passing some variable to the cgi script. I forget what it is.

Anyway, I think the autumn flavor is really awesome. I think the footer file is constraining the way the calendar and tag cloud look. I'll have to dink around with other flavors and see what they do differently. But it's really pretty! I took a screenshot, just in case I change the flavor later:

/me needs sleep.